Best Flashlights According to r/flashlight

"Yes and No. Your light probably has bad QC. But the 'buy our batteries!' conspiracy is well alive. [Get yourself a Convoy T4](https://convoylight.com/products/convoy-t4-red-aa-14500-flashlight?data_from=collection_detail) in 519a in a CCT of your choice (5000k is a nice starter) and a body color of your choice and keep using those Lithium AA's. An alkaline can leak and ruin a perfectly good light. If you want something with rechargeable Li-ion cells, get a Convoy T7 in 519a @ 5000k and body color of your choice and add a Vapcell F15 battery and just charge it via USBC"

"The same thing happened to me. I received a Convoy T4 with two Vapcell H10 last week, one of them was DOA. Try contact Simon, he will send a new one. I'm waiting to receive another order with Vapcell H10 replacement"

"I would get a Convoy T4 with 519A and a Skilhunt H150. This way you have a good general purpose light and a headlamp which can both run on lithium primary AA batteries. [https://convoylight.com/products/convoy-t4-black-aa-14500-flashlight/](https://convoylight.com/products/convoy-t4-black-aa-14500-flashlight/) [https://www.skilhunt.com/product/h150-aa-14500-usb-magnetic-rechargeable-headlamp/](https://www.skilhunt.com/product/h150-aa-14500-usb-magnetic-rechargeable-headlamp/)"

"Not much of a story but one time I was walking with a buddy by a golf course that was part of a park. It was not gated at all so we assumed it was public and ok walk through to get to the other side. While making our way across we get absolutely lit up from what we assumed was a security guard. We couldn’t see anything at all and covered our faces, wincing. They didn’t say anything. Then I remembered something…I had my D4SV2 with W2’s in my pocket! I grabbed it and returned fire with some turbo. They were bewildered from being completely illuminated and utterly exposed and they turned away immediately. We turned our lights off and walked a different way out and they didn’t follow. It felt so empowering to have that sort of control of a situation when they probably felt the same way. There’s always a bigger fish in the sea and that night it was me."

"I’m solidly in the 4000-4500K camp. I don’t want a blue or red tint. Occasionally 5000K is okay but somehow starts to look a tad blue sometimes and a little lower is on the safe side. I can also tolerate a little more on the + side duv than I can on the negative. It gets rosy quickly for my eyes. I have a D4SV2 that I mistakenly had the 4500K 519a’s dedomed and now is about 3300K and I’m thinking of getting rid of it and ordering another one. I feel that 4000K-5000K as close to 0.0 duv is the perfect match for indoor or outdoor use for what I prefer."

"Ohh, you should really take a look at a [**D4Sv2 custom mule from JLHawaii808**](https://jlhawaii808.com/products/emisar-d4sv2-18-x-led-mule-2-channel-tint-ramp-custom-built-to-order-copy?srsltid=AfmBOoozCzyireAwYDONHJnsfc_0qxMEzTvmuqcuuDq8oiop0wvQOs-J). In my opinion, it's one of the best looking mule lights out there. It's a two-channel mule with very high turbo output. I've got that one with the FFL351A (12 x 2700K) and FFL351A (6 x 5000K). I even have some beamshots of it compared to my Nov-Mu V2 Nichia E21A 4500K. https://preview.redd.it/91xql55oeu5g1.jpeg?width=2460&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ab2c86dfeeb850ea7a104bc7bf1aaa844b05429b"

"[Convoy L7 with SBT90.2](https://convoylight.com/products/convoy-l7-sbt90-2-26650-flashlight?data_from=search_detail) has a good amount of bonk and will light shit up like the sun."

"Having used the Fireflies T9R, Convoy L7, 3x21D, and M21J, I still find the bonk factor and carryability of the L7 to be best. It’s also got the best thwackability among these listed. If you’re uncertain whether you’ll like it, or you don’t want to deal with multiple cells, the L21B is another option."

">My budget is 300$ That's plenty! Get yourself a Convoy L7, and a Convoy L21B SFT40 -- that will set you back about $100 combined. Both will easily hit your required distance and then plenty more. Both have wide hot spots and a good spill. If you want to spend a little more get a Convoy M1 SFT40 as a backup in your pocket. You'll eed an external battery charger (like $25 for a pretty good one). Be sure to get a matching pair of 21700 batteries for your L7 and never swap in a non matching pair. If you want to keep it under $50 you could just get the L21B SFT40, a backup battery and a small charger."

"I have almost 50 lights. Here's my five favorite at the moment. Convoy T6 w/ SFT25 6500K and forward clicky switch - tiny pocket thrower with great output and reach. Has completely replaced my S6 CSLNM1. Emisar D3AA 519a 5000K DD - great little EDC with tons of output and a very efficient driver Convoy L21B w/ SFT40 6500K and forward clicky switch - ridiculous amount of throw with a lot of output for not a lot of money. Great driver too. Skilhunt H150 w/ 519a 4500K - small, lightweight, dual fuel headlamp. Emisar D4V2 dual channel w/ 219b 2700K/4500K - I just really enjoy having this set this to auto tint ramp. The way the CCT increases with the brightness makes me happy, and 219b makes such nice looking light."

"That's not the Skilhunt H150, but the Vapcell H10. There was a bad batch sold this year with high failure rate. For example: https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/1o30dmf/vapcell_h10_positive_terminal_corrosion_safe_to/ https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/1nqpfhg/battery_spontaneously_heating/ https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/1nlvj7w/vapecell_h10_05v/ https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/1mg63i8/vapcell_h10_draining_wout_usage/ https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/1luygt6/vapcell_h10_drained_below_2v/"

"I use a Skilhunt h150. The ability to clip it to your shirt or use it as a headlamp is super handy when dealing with car stuff. Also magnetic base for under the hood or even to add more light to a trunk."

"Skilhunt e3a. Cheap, super bright, easy to use, common batteries. It’s just bigger than a aaa."

"It was the E3A AAA that got very warm / hot when left on for a few minutes. We don’t remember experiencing uncomfortable heat when using the Olight I3S EOS. The Olight I3S had several different brightness settings, so there is a good chance my wife was using it at a lower brightness level than the E3A, which appears to only have one brightness settings."

"The e3a punches way above its weight class. For $12 and that tiny, it makes no sense how good it is."

"For me personally, E2A > Tool. E2A much better build quality. 3 modes and no Strobe in the cycle. Tool AA does have higher sustained outputs though, but it feels too flimsy with a mushy button. Cycling through 4 modes, and hitting that strobe by accident annoys the sh\*t out of me ;),"

"though most skilhunt use no pwm, the E2A uses slow PWM of 629Hz, which is considered High Risk Flicker Index, with potential to cause migraine in sensitive individuals, when used for extended periods. (Flicker Index is a metric related to office lighting, and its effect on workers exposed for long hours at a time): https://preview.redd.it/hw36mtlovdof1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d402fab8ed0d88c55e39d77c0717a4857fd857e1"

"- Flashlights don’t like dropping. You would have to pay high premium for effective protection (I refer to potting). I would suggest to go for a few more redundant pieces instead. - You probably should choose IPx8 water ingress protection == none of the Convoy lights - I would suggest to check Skilhunt E2A (https://1lumen.com/review/skilhunt-e2a/) — IPX8, great clip, nice beam, well protected tail-switch (no accidental activations in the pocket, as in case of Acebeam Pokelit)"

"Had been into flashlights for over 10 years without a Zebra, hearing about them but not “getting it”. Then I bought one. And another. And another. And a modded one. And another… Anyways, long story short, great lights. Tint can be a bit bad on some SC600 and SC700, but perfect on models using Nichia. If you want perfect tint on any you can get in touch with McBob. Since I got the SC65c it has never left my pocket, the most pocketable 18650 flashlight for me."

"This is why I EDC an anduril light with lockout mode. I had a Zebralight SC65c HI try to set fire to my pocket on day 1 of ownership (also while driving, fortunately I got it out before it actually burnt anything), which is one of the reasons why I'm very wary of pocket carrying anything without lockout."

"If you drop it regularly, I'd get a Zebralight. The driver and led board are all on one integrated board and potted so likelihood of damage from dropping it is unlikely. The UI is fully customizable so you can program what a single, double or press and hold do for you. The SC65C is tiny and about as compact as it gets for an 18650 light. Great tint, CCT and CRI too."

"Hi guys, its been a while 😆 Welp, yes I am still alive if you were wondering. I was just too busy working to fund money to but flashlight haha. Anyways, I am bored so I took a quick XRF scan of the convoy S2+ Ti to see its metal composition. As it shows, yes it convoy titanium really is Titanium(unsurprisingly, lol)!"

"Love to see it. I recently took a job at a steel mill and I’ve come to learn that most of the millwrights and electricians are gear nerds, and seeing the way some of them customize their stuff is inspiring and makes me wish I had pursued machining when I was younger. As I’m sure you already knew, the S2+ basically has 2 off-the-shelf clip options, the snap-on and the screw-on, and both of them are meh, just ok. I’ve lost one S2+ when the snap-on clip popped off and it slipped out of my pocket without me noticing, and the screw-on option isn’t deep carry and only comes in stainless and it’s a pain to fiddle with the tiny little screws and nuts to actually get it on. I’m sure many other besides us have longed for a better clip, and it’s really cool to see someone take the time to make it themselves."

"Picked up a Convoy S2 UV when I was shopping for a new light for my mom, since they are so cheap! it's really a steal with the included UV lens and all. Also threw on a violet shorty tube to make it a compact package! Now I have read several times that you DO NOT take your UV light into the bathroom, unfortunately I'm stupid and did not take your advice to heart. Am now traumatized. Bonus picture of lighting up some rubies in my open heart watch!"

"I love the firefly modes in E02 II — amazingly low (such a pity that Manker did not keep them in gen. 3)."

"Manker E02H II has been discontinued and had a UI lockout bug. Not a big recommendation for. You from what you are saying you are seeking. Rechargeable is a great way to go. And if you can just recharge the light on your calendar reminder when you sleep like once a month you are golden. $50 is pretty limiting overall if you want something really nice that you will use for years but we can look for some options. You do not mention a magnetic tail want/need or a switch type. Thoughts on these items?"

"Manker E02 III has selectable moonlight modes in AAA format, down to 0.1 lumens."

"I have a sofirn C8L as a more heavy duty/tactical flashlight and a wurkkos HD50 sturdy headlamp. Both are great"

"Main point was that it drops dramatically to only \~500lm (also becomes unusually hot for Sofirn/Wurkkos) and continues to drop. Here the complete runtime of Sofirn C8L. Sustained >1000lm: https://preview.redd.it/t8zhlt2q8ooe1.jpeg?width=1082&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bab089648a68cdef2fb902df3071cd9b8494e350 So, my conclusion stands: IF22A is only good for about 2 minutes."

"If you're using the light for 8 hours total for just between 2 nights, you'll need extra batteries. Not even a Vapcell F60 6,000mAh battery running an efficient boost driven cool white emitter will last two nights of medium output use. Unless you just intend to run it on lowest mode.... If you can stretch your budget just a few dollars, then the [Sofirn C8L off Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/Tactical-Flashlight-Rechargeable-Waterproof-Emergency/dp/B09ZP5TGTM?th=1) is going to be one of your best options. You can get it tomorrow if you want to and you're in the USA. Otherwise, your budget cap limits you to overseas options that will arrive way later than Feb 7."

"I walk through a cemetery every night, with my dog. Occasionally, I'll come across another person walking their dog, or just out for a stroll, and they'll shine their flashlight into my eyes from a distance, as they get spooked by someone else being there late at night. I usually use level 2 on my Sofrin SP36 Pro, but go to Turbo when this happens, and light up nearly the entire cemetery. Sometimes I get a quick "Sorry!', or they'll ask me what I've got when they eventually pass me on the path. Always fun."

"Its not even remotely close to even 1000 lumens. [https://1lumen.com/review/sofirn-sp36-pro-anduril2/#performance](https://1lumen.com/review/sofirn-sp36-pro-anduril2/#performance)"

"Please, listen to people here. Proper torches these days use proper lithium ion batteries. I have torches that can run for literal days on end with a single charge at levels high enough to light up a room in an emergency. You’d never get that from AA batteries. My recommendation, if you don’t mind a chunky light, is the Sofirn sp36 pro. I’ve had mine for 2 years and maybe charged it 5 times. It’s super bright but you can “ramp” the brightness from basically moonlight to brother than sunlight by holding the power button until you reach the desired brightness."

"It starts with that 50mm TIR lens. But it hardly ends there. Unless you have a large LES emitter to use under that 50mm optic, you just cannot come close to reproducing or competing with the beam profile of the L35.2... And equally important, you need that driver, whether it's a boost or a buck one, to be top of the line. Acebeam makes a stupidly ridiculously superior boost driver for the L35 2.0. The Cree XHP70.3HI it uses is already one of the best efficiency, high lumens/watt emitters on the market. You then pair it up with an excellent boost driver and that's why almost no single 21700 battery light can eclipse that 1,700 lumens sustain, or give you the nearly perfect mode spacing that it does with the XHP70.3HI: 5000>1800>800>250>80>1....... This also means that you can't have the SBT90.2 under that TIR match or beat the L35.2's maximum or sustained luminous flux. The Fireflylite E90 Blaze TIR is in this pathway. It'll hold about 1,000-1,200 lumens. So the E90 will actually out-throw the L35.2 when both are in their highest stable sustained output. But the L35.2 will produce more lumens. Then, if you force it to hold 35% output, like you can with the SBT90.2 in the Convoy M21J, you're going to risk burning the light out, or burn yourself. You might be able to have the LMP LHP73B 6500K emitter behind the 50mm TIR in Convoy's M21J match or beat the output and carry similar beam profile to the L35.2.... But the problem is going to be Convoy's driver, as the LHP73B cannot hold that 35% output from the 4-mode UI, especially with the M21J. It even does worse than the SBT90.2.... Even if you can shove the 50mm TIR into the M21G, it'll still be handicapped by the mode levels with the UI. Right now, there's no single-battery light that can dethrone the L35 2.0 for general outdoor use. Every other current alternative has their issues and compromises when compared against the Acebeam."

"I recently just got back too. I wanted an Acebeam L35 2.0 but that was out of my budget, so I got a Convoy M21H with XHP70.3 instead for 1/3 the price."

"There is no such thing as a "One and Done"... This sub exists mostly because there is no such thing. The closest unicorns I have gotten over the years is the Acebeam L35 2.0. for a handheld and the Armytek Wizard C2 Pro Max for a headlamp. And even those two have a handful of (nitpicking) disadvantages. But for outdoor use, those two are also the ones I would bet my life on if I need it to survive or need it to find someone in a SAR mission. But to have it be lantern-convertible, red light equipped it'll likely be a headlamp. And you may want to start off with options like the Skilhunt H04RC or if you want a more robust light you can use hiking up to and down Mount Whitney, you can opt for the Fenix HP30RV2 or HP35R."

"For the highest CRI and the most neutral tint (I don’t like rosy) I like Nichia B35AM emitter (4500K) the most. 519a (4500K/5000K) comes as the close second. I like Skilhunt M200v3 for its compactness and magnetic charging port that ensures permanent water ingress protection. If you firmly prefer USB-C, then you might want to consider Skilhunt EC200: https://tgreviews.com/2024/05/27/skilhunt-ec200/"

"Yeah I have an M200. It’s almost like they purposefully designed the switch to feel exactly like the charging pad."

"No brainer, Skilhunt M200 V4 Not currently available in warm but the 5000K neutral white HI CRI 519a is still very nice. No particular rhyme or reason to what lights Skilhunt has available at any particular time with 4500k, 4000k, or 3000k versions of the same LED. Has two moonlight levels, 2.5 lumens and 0.2 lumens. Would suggest getting it without a battery and then adding Skillhunt’s usb-c 18650 to the same order. The on board charging is magnetic so there is no external usb-c port to allow water in but it’s not convenient to have to carry around the proprietary magnetic cable. Get the battery with the usb—c port and you can charge either way."

"The CL01 is the best portable lantern on the market. The LT1 is still the best power went out at home lantern on the market."

"When I need a lantern, it’s for longer time. Within 20 minutes LT1S’ Turbo will drop to the lumen level of CL01: https://preview.redd.it/m34qkg2npqaf1.jpeg?width=896&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=34fdba286a3e813501aa53c4996fa55bf875ad5b So, no practical lumen advantage of LT1S for me. The CL01’s glare is much lower and I really appreciate its directional beam. This might be the only form of diffusion that can compete with ceiling bouncing. To have no glare the diffuser would have to be impractically big, imo."

"Sofirn LT1 because candle mode and it runs forever. You can change the tint to a nice warm 2700k. [https://www.sofirnlight.com/products/sofirn-blf-lt1-anduril-2-0-rechargeable-lantern?srsltid=AfmBOor6SVg8mh9mfOHE2IEx9V4itShCQqI-K-kXi\_9fglKEhW\_xdfcA](https://www.sofirnlight.com/products/sofirn-blf-lt1-anduril-2-0-rechargeable-lantern?srsltid=AfmBOor6SVg8mh9mfOHE2IEx9V4itShCQqI-K-kXi_9fglKEhW_xdfcA) Non battery, I'd have to say the UCO Candle Lantern is pretty awesome. They sell citronella candles to go in it to keep the mosquitos at bay. I usually bring it with me when I go car camping, but too cumbersome for backpacking. In a pinch you can cook with it and it actually puts out a decent amount of heat considering its only 3 candles. [https://ucogear.com/collections/candle-lanterns](https://ucogear.com/collections/candle-lanterns)"

">What's your favorite?! Mine *has* to be the skilhunt h300 with the nichia 144art. It's just sooo good! >first andruil right angle light? Not many options. It's just the dw4, dw4k, L70, and L60mu AFAIK. Pick the one you like in the emitters of your choice. I personally would get the dw4 with 519a 4500k domed (and carclo 10622 optic, email hank)"

"I’ve got both and I’ve sold H300 due to inferior CRI (poorer rendering of reds)."

"I have never tried it, but I feel like I'd like the Armytek Wizard C2 Pro and the C1 USB. Might bite the bullet sooner than later and get one... I currently use the Skilhunt H300 and enjoy it. Easy to use, good headband, overall does the job. The HS21 is cool, although I'm probably thinking too much when using it, because I can't ever decide which LEDs to use, I keep changing them every minute haha. I'm probably just not used to it yet. The HS21 is pretty good, I like it. Although with the H300 I don't need to think what mode to choose for which situation, I just turn it ON and that's it. Third in order would probably be the HD15. I enjoyed using it with the Skilhunt headband. The HS42 is good too. The triple click to change the beam type might be a bit annoying, but I guess I just change the beam type too frequently. Here and with the HS21, I'm overall not a big fan of such a wide shining flood mode. I prefer to have a clear beam cutoff and having the beam slightly more focused than shining 180 degrees. The HS42 is probably better than the HD15 in the long run, to be honest."

"I’m glad to see that the magnetic charging (which I adore despite minor inconvenience of carrying the „dedicated cable”) did not disqualify both Skilhunts. In case of M150v4 it is trivial to _ignore_ it thanks to the option of the 14500 battery with the USB-C charging port. By the way, I’m looking forward to the new „in house” high CRI 5000K emitter F35R which Skilhunt recently announced: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/new-high-cri-led/55534/837"

"> My M150 have died out of nowhere a couple months after ordering it did you try cleaning off all the old lubrication on all the threads, and ends of body tube, and inside the head and tailcap, using alcohol on a Qtip? that often solves the problem you describe. H150 is a great light, with NoPWM, and Regulated output. Emisar Dw3AA is an other option that also has NoPWM and has Regulated output. Wurkkos HD10 is a nice light, but it uses PWM (althought it is not visible) here is a size comparison:"

"I would guess that almost any light with a moonlight mode would be capable of being way dimmer that one. I'm sure plenty of other suggestions will come from more knowledgeable people, but I have had a really good run with the moonlight mode on the Skilhunt M150v3 when using it at work. The newer version 4 one has two moonlight modes, one putting out about 2 lumen and one putting about 0.1lumens."

"Emisar D3AA for the pocket light. Advantages over the TS10-and I love my TS10-are higher sustained runtime and ability to use regular AA's."

"Looks like that keeppower is a protected cell. Protected cells don't play nice on turbo. Hank states to only use unprotected cells in a D3AA. From the D3AA site - "The flashlight works with button and flat top unprotected 14500 cells as well as NiMH AA cells. Emisar D3AA does not work with protected 14500 cells." I use flat top Vapcell F12's in my D3AA's. I have had trouble in the past with button top Vapcell 14500s in D3AA's. They are longer then most other button top 14500s and caused interference problems."

"I have almost 50 lights. Here's my five favorite at the moment. Convoy T6 w/ SFT25 6500K and forward clicky switch - tiny pocket thrower with great output and reach. Has completely replaced my S6 CSLNM1. Emisar D3AA 519a 5000K DD - great little EDC with tons of output and a very efficient driver Convoy L21B w/ SFT40 6500K and forward clicky switch - ridiculous amount of throw with a lot of output for not a lot of money. Great driver too. Skilhunt H150 w/ 519a 4500K - small, lightweight, dual fuel headlamp. Emisar D4V2 dual channel w/ 219b 2700K/4500K - I just really enjoy having this set this to auto tint ramp. The way the CCT increases with the brightness makes me happy, and 219b makes such nice looking light."

"Wurkkos HD10 is another option, particularly if Anduril and USB-C recharging are considered positives. But the H150 already mentioned is a pretty good shout, 3000K is a lovely temp on the 519a."

">Also, I’d prefer if it ran on batteries rather than requiring constant charging. If I may, take a look at the [Wurkkos HD10](https://www.wurkkos.com/products/wurkkos-hd10). Rechargeable USB-C (14500), high CRI Nichia 519A emitter, and warm and cozy with the 4000K option. It recharges quickly, and if swapping is your game, it’s easy enough to get a few extra 14500 batteries. https://preview.redd.it/ctsimyt8zxyf1.jpeg?width=2760&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=30855c9f52e99db1ac06fc39b0e4acd726840a7a"

"https://preview.redd.it/d8zb2szxtczf1.jpeg?width=1798&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c72fe6067c72e4753d0f8e25527a932e2f7b9061 Wurkkos HD10 & HD12 will run off of a power bank or wall charger while connected to a usb c cable. It’s very handy. Plus, 4000K 95+ cri for the HD10 with lots of moonlight options makes it perfect for reading imo. It’s my favorite & I use it a lot. The headband is also is the most comfortable I have used yet."

"Malkoff. Modlite. Surefire. Surefire EDC1-DFT is my favorite light released last year. Lots of good reviews of it and many fans."

"The D1K is the best bang for the buck, IMO. You can get it with the SBT90.2 or SFN60, but it's more of a hotrod in this configuration than it is a work light. The form factor is too small and these emitters are arguably the best match for hosts that are physically larger and can use multiple and/or larger batteries. If you want something that is very bright and usable, the XHP70.3HI R70 in the 5000-6500k range with the Lume X1 driver is where you are going to get an extremely strong sustained performer. It will not have the wow factor of some of the ultra high-output emitters, but after a short period, the 70.3 will be the brighter light and the one that delivers much better sustained performance. The 70.3 also has a very nice balance of throw and flood and is perfect for what you have described. Hank also just released his own emitters. I have one on order and cannot speak directly to it, but from what I am reading they are looking great."

"A nice fix for the D1K RGB switch that ruins moonlight! Damn thing is bright as fuck!!"

"•D1K SFN60 •M21B LHP73B/SFT90 •DT8K SFT25R •D4V2 NTG35 Few others, but those four lights above are all worth ~double what you pay for them if you're asking me! If you do wanna spend a bit more then the: •E04 Surge {SFT42R or FFL505HB} & •E90 Blaze {FFL909A} Are super-premium lights that are both well worth their respective outlay/s. & one last ripper flashlight to end my list..... A sweet deal can be found on eBay, a seller on there has plenty of new old stock left of the FLAWLESS silver chrome finish: •2021 Fireflies E07 8300 lumen bad boy.... Good luck with whatever you do decide 2 go with, whether it is one I have vouched for or otherwise, my friend! ✌️"

"100% true. They thought my S6 was a weak compact torchlight. The NM1 proved them wrong"

"I carry my s6 daily.. it has a very tight hot spot but enough spill for my purposes (I work in a lot of attics and crawl spaces) Sft40 3000k 5amp buck. No issues with the light turning on by itself. Keep spare battery with you as there’s NO usb charging onboard with the convoy s6"

"There are so many good combinations with the S6. I have the SFT40 3000k (only 5A), but I would claim that that emitter is practical of the bunch I have. It is usable indoors as well as outside. The warm high CRI is nice too. Now, you need to get yourself the same setup with the SFT-25R. It's nuts."

"Better in what way, sustained output? Do you have the updated 3x21E with buck + FET driver? Otherwise I'd suggest that. Noctigon M44 is smaller (3x18650) and probably lower sustain but NTG35 option and dual boost driver seems sweet. Otherwise I can't think of any ultra floody high CRI soda can light options of the top of my head."

"One of my favorites is the [Nocigon M44](https://intl-outdoor.com/noctigon-m44-meteor-4-quad-high-power-led-flashlight.html). It’s a dual channel light that allows you to use either channel individually, both together at full power, or tint mix the two channels however you’d like. It’s a short and chunky soda can light that uses three 18650’s and gives you great runtime, but is still small enough to slip in a jacket pocket, or carry comfortably for a long walk. I love mine, would highly recommend."

"What is better than one, two M43's with a bonus M44 ;) https://preview.redd.it/jzb3m3thjbke1.jpeg?width=2160&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2c80e49800514c2a0e332c9d0fa03232a849e96a"